stele1/roadmap/0015-support-flexible-gradi...

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support-flexible-grading-systems (15)

grading systems can be odd:

  • a route just in the Y.D.S. can be 5.10, 5.10+, 5.10d, 5.10/5.11 which can all be about the same
  • these can kind of compare to the E grades
  • E grades can somewhat compare to Movie grades, but Movie doesn't relate to Y.D.S. at all
  • Hueco's fluttering heart is nice too
  • does quality count as "grading"?

encoding/comparing these is a difficult task

  • discipline - free, aid, ice
  • style - top-rope, sport, trad, free-solo
  • technical difficulty -

the best solution might be to establish a few common scales and always deliver the scale and grade:

  • ::
    • Experience:British:E10
    • Difficulty:Y.D.S.:5.10+
    • Difficulty:Yosemite-Decimal-System:5.10+
    • Difficulty:Aid:A5
    • Difficulty:Clean-Aid:C5
    • Safety:Movie:G
      • !!! safety depends on the style of ascent
    • Safety:Fluttering-Hearts:3
      • 💙💙💙
      • ❤❤❤
      • 💓💓💓
      • !!! safety depends on the style of ascent

examples

motivation

design/implementation

drawbacks

alternatives

unresolved aspects